Le Plateau shows up like a low, beautiful tray of cherrywood—about 19 inches long—and then, with one pull, it turns into the host’s entire setup. Two hidden drawers slide out from the sides: one in lacquered yellow, one in lacquered blue. It’s a small piece of cabinetry craft with a sense of humor, the kind of thing you put on the table and immediately start using. The yellow drawer is the polite part: 10 handmade leather coasters, ready for whatever glasses appear. The blue drawer is the working kit, laid into a leather mat and held in place by wooden inserts: Bilame Chromé for older corks, Garçon for everyday bottles, a chromed foil cutter, a Champagne cork opener, and the Pourer Leaf for a cleaner, neater pour. Everything has its spot, which means the night moves faster—and you don’t end up hunting for tools mid-conversation.